PFWM: Sulvam Fall/Winter 2019

January 20, 2019

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Article and Photos by Mabel Gago

Travel from Barcelona–Paris sponsored by Renfe-SNCF [/x_text][/x_column][x_column bg_color=”” type=”3/4″ style=”padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; “][x_text]At day 3 of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, I once again found myself at the Palais de Tokyo, this time to see the Sulvam Fall/Winter 2019 collection.

What I saw was an unexpected presentation — models crossing in silence in front of our eyes, evoking film memories through references of Stanley Kubrick, reintrepreted by the artistic personality of designer Teppei Fujita. Teppei surprised us by confessing that the collection is made entirely by free-hand, without using any patterns. Such complexity explains how Teppei controls the shapes, fabrics and colors. It might sound like chaos, but this is just the excuse Teppei uses to wildly execute his ideas, without waiting.

An admiration towards the 30’s crisis survivors and the images that impacted Teppei are woven into the collection. From the photographs by Auguste Thunder or Diane Arbus, Teppei designs an unconventional aesthetic filled with classic pieces: hats, long coats and foulards. Some of the footwear show the Japanese roots of the designer. Straight pants, either printed or monochromatic for the guys, almost hidden by oversized warm jackets, are contrasted with colorful trousers for the women, but we loved the long flare skirts. Fabrics ranged from velvet, wool and cotton.

There was one look that was extremely special — an oversized bomber jacket in printed camouflage paired with matching straight trousers. The rare detail of this look was that it was completely embroidered with big pearls. A military shirt, finished by a coordinated tie also embroidered with pearls, reminds the figure of the American soldiers of the 30s. The collection was also styled with amazing makeup and hairstyles which remind us of those worn by the glamorous stars of that era.

Sulvam is an example of how young brands face the fashion industry without fears and evoke the past so as to bring a new future.