Buenos Aires – One Barrio at a Time

January 31, 2016

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by Danny de la Cruz[/x_text][/x_column][x_column bg_color=”” type=”3/4″ style=”padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; “][x_text]Based on proximity, Mexico and the Caribbean will remain popular destinations in 2016 for many in North America. But if you’re tired of the same old destinations, all you need to do is head just a bit further south — there’s so much more to discover on the South American continent. Depending on where you go, the plane ride isn’t too bad in terms of hours sitting in that plane seat and you won’t be dealing with massive jet lag compared to a flight to Europe or Asia. And finally, don’t forget about the strength of the U.S. dollar compared to South American currency.

Let’s start off by heading all the way South – to Buenos Aires, Argentina. [/x_text][x_text][nextpage title=”Welcome to Buenos Aires ” ]
It was the lure of the tango and visions of couples passionately dancing in the streets of San Telmo. I had heard about the beautiful architecture and grand boulevards reminiscent of Europe, and of course for the food lover in me, my taste buds were craving the world-renowned steaks — this carnivore was ready for a feast.

From Chicago, it was a quick flight to Houston and then a 10 hour, overnight flight to Buenos Aires. Once we had collected our bags and cleared customs, we were met by our guide, Melissa, a beautiful, young Porteña who would be our private tour guide for two days in addition to eventually escorting us off to the airport. In our private van, she gave us the lay of the land, explained the tour schedule and highlighted sights as we made our way into the city during an hour-long drive. We arrived at the hotel and Melissa assisted us with check in and then left us to a day to relax and casually explore our surroundings on our own. buenos aires recoleta neighborhood

This trip straddled November and December, so we had left a chilly Chicago and landed in springtime, but during our trip, there were many days that were truly summer like. Despite the warmer climate, the city was just gearing up for the holidays, unlike the States where Christmas was already in full bloom. It was a nice change of pace not to have Christmas smacked in our face at every turn. During our stay in Buenos Aires, only the malls and shopping areas showed some signs of the holidays, otherwise, it could have been any other time of the year.

During this adventure, it would be a combination of exploring the various barrios of Buenos Aires on our own, along with private tours within the city and provinces. Welcome to eight days in Buenos Aires, starting with the Recoleta neighborhood.

Travel Tips

Given the location of Buenos Aires, the seasons are opposite of those in the US. Spring (September – November) is a wonderful time to visit and earlier in the year in fall (March – May) is also another time to plan a visit.
You get a big bang for your dollar. At the time of this writing, $1 US dollar is equivalent to almost $14 Argentine Pesos.
Speaking of currency be wise about where you exchange your money and know the signs of authentic currency; there’s a green/blue color change as you scan Pesos at various angles.
Cabs are plentiful and a very easy and cheap way to get around the city. Always look for the “Radio Taxi” sign for a reputable ride and tell the driver to “start the meter” (if they don’t immediately do so once the car starts moving). Try to pay with smaller denominations of less than $100 Pesos and any amount of change for a tip is always greatly appreciated.
As with any country and travel, watch your belongings and keep your purses/backpacks toward the front of your body instead of your back. And, leave the expensive and flashy jewelry at home to lessen the attention to yourself as you’re out and about.
Know your surroundings – the neighborhood can quickly change in a matter of a block or two so get the lay of the land as soon as you arrive with a quick chat with your hotel concierge.
If you love steaks, you’ve come to the right country. They are grilled to perfection and melt in your mouth. They are served without any toppings, unlike all the sauces/rubs offered in U.S. steakhouses, which tend to cover up the beef flavor. Bottomline, vegetarians beware since steaks are the entree of choice.
If you love leather products, then you’re again in the right country. Leather coats and shoes make this a perfect shopping destination. Shop around and learn about the various qualities of leather to ensure that you make an educated purchase and bring something back home that you can treasure.

Page 1: Overview / Page 2: Hotels / Page 3: Recoleta Cemetery / Page 4: El Ateneo

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[nextpage title=”The Recoleta” ]

Home base during this adventure was at The Brick Hotel in the Recoleta neighborhood. From the outside, The Brick is literally a huge brick, so not much to look at. The lobby has been modernized and adjoining it is a gallery space with modern art for moments of respite from long days of sightseeing. Further ahead on the main level is the dining area where each day, we had a varied selection of delicious breakfast foods and pastries, both hot and cold, coupled with additional hot breakfast entrees which were made to order from the menu.

I had reserved Jr. Suites which were very spacious and had large marble bathrooms. While the bedroom was large, it was decorated in a more traditional style, completely opposite of the modern vibe presented in the lobby area. The only negative was the marble bathroom areas, though large, they were in need of updates.

The Brick Hotel

The Brick Hotel: Dining Area

The Brick Hotel: Gallery Space

The Brick Hotel: A quiet corner in the lobby

The Brick Hotel: A breakfast buffet

The Brick Hotel: A special touch for breakfast

The Brick Hotel: Art Installation

While the hotel location is where it shines, the concierge service was also wonderful, especially Martin, who helped us with a range of services throughout our stay.

Once outside the hotel, we found ourselves surrounded by posh boutiques and shops and we were sandwiched (about a block or two apart on either direction) between the Four Seasons and the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt; the location was perfect.

The Four Seasons, Buenos Aires, Argentina

buenos aires recoleta the brick entrance

Garden entrance to the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Hotel

Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Hotel

Floral tablescape – Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Hotel

An amazing steak dinner at the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt

Right across the street is an upscale, multi-level shopping mall with plenty of food options that stay open into the late hours of the night. Wandering the streets of the Recoleta neighborhood would lead us past many more beautiful hotels such as the Alvear Palace Hotel, ritzy shops, modern residential buildings, and beautiful residences and structures reminiscent of Paris. There were also many eateries on every block so selecting a place to dine was always challenging since there were too many options.

Also within the Recoleta are various park-like settings, the Recoleta Mall, museums and the famed Recoleta cemetery where Eva Perón is buried — all within an easy walk from the hotel.

Recoleta neighborhood cafes

Page 1: Overview / Page 2: Hotels / Page 3: Recoleta Cemetery / Page 4: El Ateneo

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[nextpage title=”The Recoleta Cemetery and Nuestra Señora del Pilar” ]

During one day of exploring the neighborhood, we wandered onto a large park after passing by numerous restaurants and outdoors cafes. On the opposite end stood a quaint, white church accented in blue — the church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar, built in the early 1700s.

Nuestra Señora del Pilar Church

Adjacent to the church is the Recoleta Cemetery made famous by Eva Perón. Unless you know exactly where she’s entombed, you would never find the rather nondescript mausoleum. Compared to the other shrines, hers pales by comparison. Fortunately, we had our guide Melissa with us on this day and she knew exactly where to lead us. You’ll know when you’ve arrived from the large masses slowly filing through the narrow passageway.

Aside from Eva Perón being buried here, the Recoleta Cemetery is a beautiful place to explore despite its morbid reality. I had a brief window to go back after the initial visit since I was struck by the beauty within the cemetery walls. As I wandered through the maze of tombs, each one seemed to become grander than the other. Beautiful statues would adorn many tombs and the carving and details in many were simply spectacular. I could have spent hours photographing and admiring each one but there were simply too many. To see more of my photographs from the cemetery, visit our Instagram Travel account.

Page 1: Overview / Page 2: Hotels / Page 3: Recoleta Cemetery / Page 4: El Ateneo

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[nextpage title=”El Ateneo Grand Splendid” ]

At the very end of our second day touring with our guide Melissa, she wanted to show us a very special bookstore. El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a bookstore that was built within a former theater. It’s a stunning venue for books and for me, one of the most beautiful bookstores I’ve ever encountered. I particularly like how they converted the stage into a cafe and overall, gave a second life to a beautiful building.